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Marrakech is enveloped in an alien culture that is mysterious, exotic and dramatic. This North African city provides a taste of true Moroccan life that is worlds apart from the familiar, package holiday destinations of Tangier and Agadir.
Marrakech, the fourth of Morocco’s Imperial Cities, founded in 1062, is today the commercial centre for the High Atlas and the Moroccan Sahara.
The city resounds to a cacophony of pounding African rhythms and the clanging and banging of everyday life. Traditionally attired Muslim inhabitants seem untouched by western influence, as they go about their daily rituals; religious observance is part of the very fabric of life in Marrakech. People are friendly and welcoming and evidently proud of their cultural heritage. It is a common occurrence to offer visitors a glass of mint tea – a traditional custom and a token of friendship. Don’t be put off, however, by the touts and hustlers that accost you in the streets, at popular tourist attractions and particularly in the central marketplace souks. Poverty is rife and begging, for many, is a way of life.
You may only have a few days at your disposal in Marrakech. If that is the case, the following suggestions will help you geta real flavour of this exciting city:
Djemaa el Fna:
Head for the bustling, central square - Djemaa el Fna, the heart of traditional Marrakech. Milling crowds around the souks, throbbing drum sounds, hastling touts, fortune-tellers, musicians, acrobats, fire-eaters, snake charmers and begging children, all create an indelible impression upon the mind of the unsuspecting visitor. The scene is overwhelming.
The best time to visit Djemaa el Fna is at sunset, when the Koutoubia Minaret is silhouetted against a vivid, crimson sky and the crowds are at maximum capacity. Around the perimeter of the square, travelling dentists, barbers, scribes and dubious looking medicine men ply their trades as locals clamour, frantically, for their attention.
The market stalls of the souks occupy a maze of narrow streets, to the north of Djemaa el Fna and are busiest in the early morning and late afternoon. They sell anything from household essentials, local produce, spices and herbs to pottery, metalwork, woodwork, jewellery and rugs. You will be expected to haggle, often over a glass of mint tea!
If it all becomes a bit too much for you, take refuge in one of the cafés bordering the main square. Some of these cafés provide rooftop seating, from which vantage point you can absorb the amazing drama unfolding, below.
The Medina:
In complete contrast to the hustle and bustle of the central square, seek out the tranquillity of some of the splendid monuments to the dynasties that once ruled Morocco. The section of the Medina that lies to the south of Djemaa el Fna has a concentration of mosques, tombs, traditional architecture and building of historic interest.
Follow the Rue du Bâb Agnaou, south of Djemaa el Fna as far as the huge gate in the city wall called Bâb er Rob. Carry on left, through another gate, the Bâb Agnaou, and straight ahead, you will see the Mosque el Mansour. To its right is a very narrow, easily missed entrance, to the splendid Saadian Tombs.
A visit to the Saadian Tombs is a must as it offers one of the most interesting reflections upon the cultural heritage of Marrakech. Built in the sixteenth century, by Ahmed el Mansour, the Saadian Tombs were later walled up in the seventeenth century by the spiteful Sultan Moulay Ismail. They lay forgotten until 1917 when, by chance, some French aerial photographers uncovered their existence. Soon afterwards, a passageway was dug out to allow tourists to view these sumptuously decorated pavilions, where the Saadian imperial families lay buried. Visit the magnificent Room of the Twelve Columns that houses the tombs of Ahmed el Mansour, his son and his grandson.
Alternatively, take another route south from Djemaa el Fna, down either the lively Rue Riad Zeitoun Kedim, or the fascinating Rue Riad Zeitoun Jedid. Both lead to the Place des Ferblantiers. To the immediate left of the Place des Ferblantiers, lie the ruins of the late sixteenth century El Badi Palace. This was formerly the magnificent residence of Ahmed el Mansour. Throughout the ages, however, it was systematically stripped of wealth and largely decimated by the vengeful Moulay Ismail. Today, the site offers no hint of its former opulence, but its sheer scale and position, alone, are impressive. There is also an air tranquillity about the ruins that is totally mesmerising.
If you return to the Places des Ferblantiers and bear right, a few minutes walk will bring you to the Bahia Palace. Built during the late nineteenth century, it was originally the residence of the ruthless Chief Vizier to Sultan Moulay el Hassan. A guide will take you on a fascinating tour through the sumptuous apartments, to the harem and the elegant courtyard that contains the separate chambers of the Vizier’s four wives.
If time permits, consider exploring the areas surrounding Marrakech:
Marrakech is the starting point for many interesting trips throughout southern Morrocco. Essaouira and Agadir, on the Atlantic coast are popular options. So, too, is Ouarzazate, to the east, on the far side of the Atlas Mountains. Travel to any of these destinations is relatively easy by car, CTM bus or the slower local buses. Consider, also, hiring a guide with a car. Prices are relatively cheap.
Whatever you choose to see and do in Marrakech, you are in for an exhilarating experience. Marrakech is a North African cultural melting pot. It is a gateway to the desert, the commercial meeting place of African, Berber and Arab Morocco. It is also a city of great culture, tranquility and dramatic intensity.
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